Baja
by Ken Streater

"Ballena!" came the quiet shout from our boat captain in the back of the panga. "Alli. Ballena!"

Sure enough, there was a whale, one hundred yards off the right side of our Mexican skiff, or panga. We watched the blow reach several feet into the sky as the big Blue whale cruised through the aqua waters of the Sea of Cortez. It disappeared with a wave of its tail, diving down deep into the warm sea that surrounds Baja. Given that we were only fifteen minutes into our adventure, and we had just passed an island with cormorants, pelicans, and Blue-footed boobies, it quickly became apparent that Baja was a nature lover’s paradise. Already this family adventure vacation was vastly rewarding and much more lay ahead!

Baja, California is truly an outdoor adventure wonderland. It is easily accessible, yet a world away from the hustle and bustle of its northern neighbor. Baja offers phenomenal wildlife viewing opportunities, isolated tranquil coves ideal for kayaking and boating, rich cultural phenomena, and so much more to adventurers seeking a world less traveled. And, considering that the weather is bad only nineteen days a year (more or less), Baja makes sense as a perfect place for a family adventure trip.

Hanging down from the bottom of California like a skinny little finger, Baja is sparsely populated, warm and dry, surrounded by mild ocean waters, and a political world away from the Mexican mainland. Tourism has long been an important component to the economy of Baja. As such, there are creature comforts ranging from the simple to the sublime and people happy to help meet your needs and wants. Those concerned with reports of dangers to tourists need not worry as these are typically generated from the southernmost part of mainland Mexico, a place far from Baja. Simply put, this is an incredibly rewarding place to travel.

Baja is famous for whale watching. Each winter, hundreds of Grey whales migrate to the coastal lagoons of Central Baja to breed and give birth. These inlets offer warm water, and, of equal importance, protection from Orca, the Grey whale’s primary predator. The warm water is important to newborns, as they don’t have the protective layer of blubber at birth. The shallow waters and small lagoons make it difficult for Orcas to utilize their speed, which is their primary advantage in pursuit of Grey whales.

And, thanks to worldwide protection, the number of Grey whales is increasing each year, as are the number of whales sighted in the flourishing Baja lagoons. The best whale watching takes place near the quiet town of Guerrero Negro, located approximately 450 miles south of San Diego. Daily tours, conducted by local guides, licensed by the Mexican government, are available. These tours typically feature numerous sightings and often afford opportunities to be within arm’s reach of these graceful and curious giant mammals. Fortunately, regulations restrict certain practices of tour operators, such as not intentionally approaching the whales, and only allowing a small number of tours each day. These result in environments that are ideal for whales to live in, play, and return to, each year. Laguna de Ojo Liebre (also known as Scammon’s Lagoon) and Laguna San Ignacio are considered the two best spots in Baja to witness the gentle grandeur of the Grey whale as part of a world-class whale-watching tour. U.S-based outfitters offer a variety of multi-day packages that include the whale-watching tours, transportation, lodging, and meals. Many packages focus just on whale watching, while others include a variety of activities, such as kayaking, fishing, snorkeling, and more.

Those wanting to see the Grey whales should plan their vacations for late December through March. A handful of outfitters offer flights from San Diego to central Baja as part of an adventure package. Since there are no commercial flights to this region, these packages are convenient and attractive to those hoping to take part in exceptional whale-watching trips.

Baja is also famous for exceptional kayaking tours. These trips take place in the Sea of Cortez, a peaceful ribbon of water sandwiched between Mexico proper and eastern Baja. The Sea of Cortez is laced with white sand beaches, deep and sleepy coves, towering islands, heaps of marine mammals, and quiet isolation. First-time paddlers and families alike thrive on kayaking adventures here. Trips from one to fifteen days allow a variety of choices for those wanting to explore Baja by boat. Families have the option of going to the more developed areas of Baja, such as the town of La Paz and trying kayaking for the day, or arranging a "leave-all-of-your-worries-behind, middle-of-nowhere," multi-day trip, with an outfitter based in the U.S.

The multi-day kayaking trips offer the greatest rewards for those looking for unsurpassed beauty, wildlife viewing opportunities, and solitude. Many of these tours take advantage of the motorized pangas to transport food and overnight gear from one idyllic beach campsite to another, leaving the kayaks light and nimble for easier paddling. This format also allows for a very comfortable trip, as the pangas can carry ice chests filled with fresh food, camp chairs, and other creature comforts. Other trips stow the gear in the belly of each kayak so that the flotilla is entirely self-sufficient and able to access micro-bays and remote beaches. Self-supported kayak trips provide the greatest solitude.

Part of what makes Baja a kayaker’s dream is the wildlife, water, and weather. Only in Baja is it possible to paddle with a warm dry wind at your back escorted by a pod of dolphins past a sea lion rookery in a calm coastal cove. The Sea of Cortez is home to a variety of whales, such as Blue whales, Humpbacks, Finbacks, and Orca. The Blue whale is the largest animal on earth, reaching 100 feet in length and over 150 tons in weight! California sea lion and elephant seal also call this place home. A wide variety of birds live on the islands that pepper the Sea of Cortez. Dozens of species including Blue-footed boobies, Royal Terns, Cormorants, Brown Pelican, and Osprey are found throughout this region.

The water and weather are equally spectacular. Typical "winter" weather features days in the seventies or low eighties, with no rain. Although winds can be strong at times, the craggy coast provides ample protected bays and inlets in which to paddle. Water temperatures in the sixties allow for comfortable kayaking and snorkeling. The water is crystal clear and an iridescent blue.

The towns of La Paz, Loreto, and Bajia de Los Angeles are the most common starting points for kayaking tours in the Sea of Cortez. Each location has appealing characteristics and benefits. La Paz is a bustling tourist town with a wealth of creature comforts. Loreto is a medium sized town with charm and culture. And, Bajia de Los Angeles, located a couple of hours east of Guerrero Negro, is a sleepy place ideal for those wanting the most isolated adventure. Commercial air service is offered to La Paz and Loreto. Private charter flights from San Diego, as part of adventure packages, are the most convenient way to get to Bajia de Los Angeles.

Clearly, choices abound when it comes to Baja family adventures. In addition to the trips described above, fishing tours, surfing camps, scuba diving excursions, and more are also available. And, countless families have found the whale watching and kayaking adventures in Baja to be among the best vacations they have ever experienced. With the great range of adventure packages and independent travel options available, why not come and see for yourself the majesty of the ballena and beauty of Baja?

Ken Streater has guided and outfitted river trips throughout the world since 1983.