New Zealand's South Island (The Hobbit's Habitat)

by Hilary Achauer

From walking on the beach with penguins, swimming with the worlds smallest, rarest dolphins, to exploring a parrot-filled jungle with its own glacier, there are almost unlimited kid-friendly activities in the South Island.

Adults will be equally captivated as they sip their way through award-winning wineries, shop in Queenstown, and experience the country's mix of Maori, Pacific Island, European, and Asian cultures.

The city of Christchurch is the gateway to the South Island, and a perfect starting point for an exploration of the island. Founded in 1850, Christchurch was a planned Church of England settlement and is often called "the most English city outside England." Take time to walk through the city. One-eighth of Christchurch is devoted to public parks, reserves and recreation grounds, and the rest of the city is filled with Victorian and Gothic architecture, stone buildings, lush green parks, and flower-filled gardens. Be sure to indulge in a wonderfully local custom-punting along the Avon River. Relax in the historic wooden boats, and watch the Christ College school boys in their black and white uniforms and straw boaters as they bicycle home from school.

The world-renowned Botanical Gardens are worthwhile even for travelers who don't have an interest in plants. Sweeping lawns, fragrant rose gardens, and some of the oldest exotic trees in New Zealand provide spectacular displays year-round.

The Avon River and its huge duck population add interest for families, as the kids can run loose, feed the ducks, and use the playground. The alpine village of Arthur's Pass is about a 2-hour drive from Christchurch. First, stop in Akaroa Harbor, formed by the eruption of two volcanoes. The craters make up the harbors of Akaroa and Lyttleton with smaller bays indenting the rest of the coastline.

Akaroa is one of the oldest European townships in Canterbury, settled by French immigrants in 1838. It's nice to take a scenic walk along the peninsula that leads past vineyards with views to the sea and flocks of sheep grazing on the rolling hills. A highlight of any visit to Akaroa Harbor is the opportunity to swim with the world's smallest and rarest dolphins-the Hector's or New Zealand Dolphin. Resident naturalists provide instruction on how to approach the dolphin, so you can concentrate on interacting with these special creatures in the crystal blue waters of Akaroa Bay. This is an experience that no one in the family will forget, and a highlight of any trip to the South Island.

From Akaroa Bay, drive across the lovely Canterbury Plains-featured in The Lord of the Rings as Edoras and the Plains of Rhoan-to wind your way past merino sheep farms to the small town of Arthur's Pass. Named after Arthur Dudley Dobson, who discovered it in 1865, Arthur's Pass is in the heart of the Southern Alps, and provides access to a wide diversity of flora and landscape. It's worth spending a full day here, exploring the beech forests, tussock clearings, moss-lined streams and lakes on the network of nature trails in the area. The kids will enjoy a visit to a high country sheep station, where, depending on the season, they can look in on baby lambs, watch as the sheep are sheared for their wool, or witness the incredible skill of the highly trained sheepdogs. There are a number of fine lodges in Arthur's Pass. Be sure to enjoy their typical high country dinner of local specialties including grilled duck breast with roasted peppers and fresh basil, followed by a dessert of pear tarte tatin with vanilla anglaise sauce or homemade fruit bread and tamarillo chutney.

From Arthur's Pass, continue along the West Coast, crossing the newly-built Otira viaduct, a technical engineering highlight. The road hugs the coast as it heads south and the landscape changes to lush forests, wetlands, and rugged coastline. Stop off at one of the beaches to walk among the amazing driftwood found in these beaches. Children enjoy discovering formations of every shape, size, and color imaginable. New Zealand's two most accessible glaciers-Fox and Franz Joseph-are found in this part of the Southern West Coast. These two glaciers are unique relics of the last ice age. Nowhere else in the world (outside arctic regions) are glaciers just 1,000 feet above sea level and 7 miles from the sea. A guided walk along the glacier will provide access to the icefalls, crevasses, panoramic views over the lower glacier, and, if you're lucky, a sighting of a kea (mountain parrot), a fascinating green bird with a red under wing and large powerful beaks.

Lake Matheson is about 3 miles from Fox Glacier and offers great walks around the lake, with views of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. When the lake and the air are still (usually in the morning), you'll see the view that has made this lake famous-the two mountains perfectly reflected in the lake's water. The lake owes its excellent reflective quality to a massive slab of ice left behind 14,000 years ago when Fox Glacier rapidly retreated. This area is populated with a number of birds, including pukekos, paradise ducks, and herons. The beaches in this area offer an abundance of sights and activities for families, from swimming and playing in the sand to observing the wildlife, including tawaki (the fiordland crested penguins), dolphins and seals.

New Zealand has a rich mining history, and there's no better place to experience this part of the country's past than in Arrowtown, near Queenstown. The town was built along the banks of the Arrow River when gold was discovered there in 1862. Many of the quaint original buildings remain, built along avenues of trees planted around the same time. Kids enjoy exploring the historic gold miner's cottages, and can even try their hand panning for gold. From Arrowtown, continue on to Queenstown, known as the adventure capital of the world. Nestled on the shores of Lake Wakatipu with snow-capped peaks in the background, Queenstown sits in a region of wide-open spaces with a clear beauty that owes much of its early development to its gold rush rivers. Fans of The Lord of the Rings may recognize this area as Lothlorien and the Ford of Bruinen. Befitting its reputation, there is no lack of activities in and around Queenstown. A favorite is the jet-boating safari, which combines a thrilling jet-boat ride along the Dart River with a bush walk in New Zealand's World Heritage Area. Along the way, guides share Maori legends and folklore, stories of early settlers, and their vast knowledge of the local flora and fauna.

From Queenstown, you may elect to visit the Milford Sound, described by Rudyard Kipling as the "eighth wonder of the world." It was carved out during successive ice ages, and at its deepest point plunges to depths of 2,000 feet. Accessible by plane from Queenstown, you can explore Milford Sound with kayaks or cruises and observe dolphins, New Zealand fur seals, Fiordland crested penguins, and hundreds of waterfalls cascading down spectacular cliff faces. The Milford Sound provides an outstanding finish to any exploration of the South Island.

FAQS

What is the best way to get to the South Island?

Fly into Auckland (Qantas, United Airlines, American Airlines and Air New Zealand offer flights that connect from Los Angeles to Auckland), and then transfer to Christchurch via connecting flights on Qantas or Air New Zealand. Once you arrive in Auckland, go through customs and claim your luggage, even if you checked them all the way through to Christchurch. After going through customs with your bags, go to domestic departures. You have two options to get from the International terminal to the Domestic terminal. A free bus runs between the terminals from 6:00am to 10:30pm. This bus departs from directly in front of the terminals. It stops at both the Air New Zealand and Qantas Domestic terminals. There is also a walkway between the International and Domestic terminals. From Queenstown, flights return to Auckland and then the United States.

What will the weather be like?

New Zealand is in the Southern Hemisphere; therefore, all seasons are the opposite of those in North America, Europe, and other Northern Hemisphere locations. The South Island has a temperate climate. From January through March, average high temperatures in the South Island range in the low to mid 70s. From April through May and September through December, the highs are in the mid 60s, and from June through August highs are in the upper 50s.

What is the local currency and how do I exchange dollars?

New Zealand's currency is the New Zealand dollar (denoted as NZ$). The rates float in relation to the US dollar. The current exchange rate is about NZ$ 2.00 to the dollar. There are 6 coins: 5, 10, 20, 50 cents, $1 and $2. There are 5 notes: 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 NZ$. The easiest way to obtain foreign currency, prior to departure, is to visit International Currency Express, Inc. online at www.foreignmoney.com, or call toll free (888) 278-6628; outside the US call (310) 278-6628. You may pay by check or credit card, and you will receive the currency that you purchase by UPS Second Day Air. Once in-country, US dollars and travelers checks can be exchanged at banks and some hotels (with various commission charges for exchange). Banks are generally open weekdays 9.00 am to 4.00 pm. In addition, major towns have ATM cash machines that will allow you to receive NZ$. Some hotels and restaurants will also accept credit cards, such as VISA and MasterCard, with fewer accepting American Express and others. In some smaller towns and villages, credit cards are not accepted at all.

Do I need a passport and visa?

US citizens need only a valid passport to enter New Zealand. Visas are not required. Passport applications and renewal forms can be picked up at any of the 13 US Passport Agency offices and at many post offices and courthouses. It generally takes about four weeks for your application to be processed. The Department of State Office of Passport Services has an information line (202-647-0518). For passport information online, go to www.travel.state.gov