Paradise Found--Easter Island's Allure

By Scott Jones

Easter Island, Isla de Pascua, Rapa Nui--the very names conjure arcane, ancient secrets of vast oceanic mysteries, of a long lost paradise, and of the depth of our human mystery. Rapa Nui, as it is called in its native language, should be on every adventurer's destination list, and will not disappoint its visitors. It soothes the soul of the most jaded traveler, and embraces the novice with the warmth of its environment, history and people. Rapa Nui's location deep in the Pacific, a six- hour flight west from Santiago, Chile, has helped the island maintain its character. Explorer, Jacob Roggeveen, "discovered" it on Easter Sunday at the late date of 1722. As was the case in 1722, the lack of a good harbor still discourages large ships from landing. The remote location is responsible for improved air access, as the United States constructed a three-mile emergency landing strip for the space shuttle in 1995. This huge runway bisects the island and facilitates frequent commercial flights directly from Santiago. Despite the island's reputation and allure, tourism is a recent phenomenon here. Travel pioneer, Lars Linblad, organized the first commercial trip in 1968 and housed his guests in tents. The last three decades have brought many changes. Tourism is now the largest business on the island. Fortunately, the low-key developments here have left the isolated uniqueness of the island quite intact. The two thousand inhabitants live in the single town, Hanga Roa, or along the island's gravel ring road. All services are locally owned--no chain services or name brands here. Accommodations are not overly luxurious; yet, they are clean and adequate. Several small restaurants in town serve standard island fare such as, excellent locally caught fish, barbecued chicken, rice and fruit. The downtown area has several souvenir shops, a post office, bank, and a few jeep/mountain bike rental shops. Two local markets provide outlets for local crafts. Look for miniature stone carvings, shell jewelry, some woodwork, a wide variety of paintings, and brilliant batiks. What can you do here? One could begin by investigating the mysterious stone structures left behind by ancient cultures. Most hotels offer a daytrip around the island by small bus. After centuries of deforestation, the island is mostly open pasture, free ranging horses, and cattle spread out over the rolling, volcanic hills which extend to the craggy shoreline. Your guide may point out a wealth of ruins sprinkled throughout this open scenery, such as temples, house ruins, canoe launching platforms, statues, and fortresses. Everywhere your eye alights lays some form of a past structure or toppled statue--each worthy of national park status elsewhere in the world. Remember, your guide's ancestors built everything here. Be respectful of tombs and let someone else ask the inevitable question about theories of extraterrestrial visitors, and UFO landing strips! Indeed the history of the rise and fall of the Rapa Nui culture is all too human. The famous stone heads, 'moais', were each carved in memory of a departed chieftan, and erected on his tomb, 'ahu'. In the latter part of the 1800s, overpopulation pressures on the island's limited natural resources toppled the existing society, creating the familiar pattern of warring clans. During this period of constant conflict, all moais on the island were toppled. All moais that are currently standing have been re-erected by modern anthropologists, some by traditional methods, and some with the help of a twenty-one ton crane, donated by a Japanese company. All moais on the island were literally carved out of the mountain side. The details of these processes continue to be a mystery. The quarry slopes are strewn with moais, abandoned midway to their destinations. One can look upon the famous ahu of Tongariki, with fifteen re-erected moais lined up along the eastern shore. If you can possibly return here in the pre-dawn and watch the sunrise behind them, you will be impressed beyond words. Continuing to the north shore, there is a stone that is perfectly spherical, magnetically charged, and approximately two feet in diameter. It is said to be a meteorite, used by ancient Polynesian mariners, to navigate the open oceans. Today, those seeking to bask in its energy field visit it. Another wonderful sight to visit is Orongo Crater, at the island's southwestern tip. Forty-six stone houses stand on the ridge. These bunker-like stone constructions, with low doors and corbelled roofs, were built high on this promontory to afford excellent defense. Petroglyphs cover many rock surfaces, a testimony to the island's complex mythology. Light blue waves crash along the cliff wall eight hundred feet below, and the vastness of the Pacific stretches before your feet. The fertile, steep slopes of the caldera were once farmed. Now, they are home to beautiful tropical vegetation. Other destinations of interest include a 'topknot' quarry, where the massive decorative headpieces for each moai were hewn. How topknots were placed on the top of the headpieces, which stood eight to ten meters tall, remains a great mystery. The island museum outlines the bigger picture of Polynesian society, as well as the specifics of archaeological knowledge and research. A wide variety of the more portable artifacts are on display. Local artists often exhibit new creations here as well. Church is an institution not to be missed. Picture a large open building, full to standing room only, with a cross section of ages, dress codes and nationalities. The decorations are a pleasing mixture of Christian themes interpreted through the hands of native artists using island materials. The service is unique and uplifting, with minimal formality, a great deal of singing, elements of several languages, and prayers for troubled individuals in the community. The good spirit and warmth is contagious--truly a unique treat for the foreign traveler. Try to travel in late January or early February and arrive for the annual festivals. You can enjoy music, many native dance/chant performances, the election of the annual Queen, the remarkable beauty of the locals (which has understandably always entranced visitors), barbecues, and cafes on the beach. One can also observe a variety of competitions which showcase native skills, such as swimming, dancing, and jewelry making. How long should you stay? Easily forever! More realistically, your decision is determined by flight schedules. The current two flights per week give you the choice of one, four, or five nights. Either of the longer options will provide a satisfactory introduction and enough time to see all the major sites. If you are willing to surrender to the lure of "island time," Rapa Nui's low-key charm could easily keep you there longer. Rapa Nui is easily within reach, yet it remains an outpost of a lost time and civilization. Right now is an ideal time to visit. Some modern services have been developed--comfortable lodges, excellent local guides, and easy accessibility--yet the unique character and identity of this wonderful island still remains. The rapid growth in tourism worldwide may threaten the sanctity of this beautiful paradise. Now is the time to experience and enjoy it!

Scott Jones has studied, traveled, and worked in tourism throughout the Arctic and is now working in and enjoying the diversity of Chile.